About Poodles
Here is some information that you may find helpful if you are thinking about buying a Standard Poodle to add to your family!
Appearance
- There are three types of Poodles recognized in Canada and the US: Standard Poodle, Miniature Poodle and Toy Poodle.
- There are many different colors of coats including: Black, Cream, Apricot, Blue, Silver, Gray, Brown, Red, White, Cafe Au Lait, Mismark, Parti, Silver-Beige, Sable, Champagne, and patterns such as Phantom and Brindle.
- Medium to large size dog
- Height: 15 inches +
- Weight: Males 45 - 70 pounds, Females 45 - 60 pounds
- Dense, curly coat and sheds minimally
- The poodle does shed, but instead of the fur coming off the dog, it becomes tangled in the surrounding hair. This can lead to matting without proper care.
- Considered Hypo-allergenic.
History
- Originally bred in Germany as a water dog
- Skilful in agility, obedience, tracking, hunting and herding
- Also known as the Pudlehund, meaning "to splash about"
Personality & Temperment
- Active, intelligent, alert, proud, graceful, noble, elegant and good natured
- One of the most trainable breeds
- Calm and low energy, but high strung if not given the proper exercise
- Sensitive to the tone of one's voice
- Will not listen if it senses that it is stronger minded than its owner, however it also does not respond well to harsh discipline. Owners need to be calm but air natural authority.
- Dislikes being alone and not the type of dog to live outside in a kennel
- Friendly with strangers and other dogs
- Excellent with children
- Bores easily and creative about finding mischief
Care
- Grooming every 6-8 weeks.
- Regular ear cleaning and plucking of hair
- Cutting nails
Health
- Most common serious health problems are Addison's disease, Bloat, and Thyroid Disease
- Hip dysplasia is also a concern with Standard Poodles. Most breeders test their dogs for this before breeding.
- Ear infections are a common problem in all poodles because of their non shedding coat grows into the ear canal, where it traps wax and dirt. Regular ear cleaning and plucking should help.
- Life expectancy: 12-15 years +
Food
I had so much to say about dog food I decided to create a page just for it!
Please click HERE to read more.
Please click HERE to read more.
Grooming
You may choose to take your Poodle to a professional groomer or do it yourself. Personally, I take my dog to a groomer once a year and groom them myself throughout the year. It can be expensive to buy all the equipment necessary but is a great way to bond with your dog. It can also be pricey to pay a groomer every 6-8 weeks. The choice is up to you. It is always good to shop around for a good groomer. You may find someone willing to give you a good price for a great poodle cut!
If you would like to groom on your own you're going to need the following tools:
If you would like to groom on your own you're going to need the following tools:
I use this one!!
- Scissors
- Brushes and Comb - (Pin brush & Slicker brush)
- De-matter
- Clipper & Blades - (Andis or Oster clippers - Size 10 & 7 blades) ( I use 7 for body and 10 for face/paws)
- Kool Lube
- Toenail Clippers
- Ear Cleaner, Hemostat & Cotton Balls
Click Here to find some amazing step-by-step advice on how to groom your dog at home, compliments of Geoff Leboutillier, owner of Leewards Standard Poodles. (He taught me everything I know!!!)
- If you choose to leave your poodles hair long, it is recommended that you blow dry and brush the hair out in order to prevent matting.
- Dogs have very sensitive skin. Try to avoid harsh chemicals and get a soothing shampoo for your poodles hair and skin.
See below for a list of great local groomers I have found through my poodle journey.
Kenzie's K9's On The Shore <---- This is who our dogs currently see
Playful Paws <---- These guys are also awesome
Elaine's Poodle Parlour <---- Also she's amazing but mostly does Miniature Poodles
Kenzie's K9's On The Shore <---- This is who our dogs currently see
Playful Paws <---- These guys are also awesome
Elaine's Poodle Parlour <---- Also she's amazing but mostly does Miniature Poodles
Mats
The last thing any poodle owner wants is mats. They're uncomfortable for your dog, messy and painful to get rid of. The best way to avoid your dog from getting mats is to blow dry after a bath and then brush, brush, brush!
We had to shave Audrey naked when her adult coat started coming in because of the combination of the rainy weather and her long locks. We were heart broken, but it's common to shave a Poodle at the time they are maturing with their adult coat. The puppy coat begins to fall out and the adult coat is popping through, this creates an undercoat which starts mats. If you don't get them when they're small they will get big very quickly. The best way of all is just to keep the coat at a manageable length for you to prevent matting. Regular grooming will also prevent matting.
We had to shave Audrey naked when her adult coat started coming in because of the combination of the rainy weather and her long locks. We were heart broken, but it's common to shave a Poodle at the time they are maturing with their adult coat. The puppy coat begins to fall out and the adult coat is popping through, this creates an undercoat which starts mats. If you don't get them when they're small they will get big very quickly. The best way of all is just to keep the coat at a manageable length for you to prevent matting. Regular grooming will also prevent matting.
Spaying & Neutering
All puppies in our breeding program will require a contract claiming that all puppies will be spayed/neutered and NOT be used for breeding purposes.
It is up to the discretion of the owner and his/her Veterinarian to decide when the right time to spay/neuter is.
It is recommended that you wait until your dog is mostly fully mature before doing the procedure. Females should be spayed before their first heat (before 1 year of age). And males should be neutered around 6 months to 1 year.
A lot of people don't like the idea of their doggy having surgery but it is the best decision you can make. Here are some benefits to spaying & neutering your dog:
It is up to the discretion of the owner and his/her Veterinarian to decide when the right time to spay/neuter is.
It is recommended that you wait until your dog is mostly fully mature before doing the procedure. Females should be spayed before their first heat (before 1 year of age). And males should be neutered around 6 months to 1 year.
A lot of people don't like the idea of their doggy having surgery but it is the best decision you can make. Here are some benefits to spaying & neutering your dog:
- Helps prevent uterine infections
- Neutering your male companion prevents testicular cancer
- Neutering/Spaying helps prevent aggression and mood swings
- Your spayed female won't go into heat
- Spaying and neutering helps fight pet overpopulation
- If your dog is spayed she is less likely to develop mammary tumors
- **Your dog can develop health problems if spayed too early. She needs her reproductive hormones for some time so her bones, joints, and internal organs can develop normally.**
Identification
Your dog should always home some sort of ID on them in case they get lost. Most dogs now are micro-chipped or tattooed but it's always good to have a quick and easy tag you can look at!
You should also get a rabies tag from your local vet.
All our dogs (and puppies born in our home) are micro-chipped for their own safety.
You should also get a rabies tag from your local vet.
All our dogs (and puppies born in our home) are micro-chipped for their own safety.
Male VS Female
Trying to decide which is better for your family?
Here's my thoughts, which is based on experience NOT science or research.
It's about personality, Not gender.
Yes, males tend to be more loyal, stable and protective, where females do their own thing and can be moody. But what we've noticed the most is that any dog can be the alpha. Big or small, male or female. In our household, Audrey is the alpha, not the male (Bogart). That goes to show that dominance doesn't always come with gender. Bogart doesn't lift his leg when he pees, he squats like a girl. We also didn't neuter him until he was over a year old.
Here are some Pros vs Cons that I found online about about Males VS Females:
Here's my thoughts, which is based on experience NOT science or research.
It's about personality, Not gender.
Yes, males tend to be more loyal, stable and protective, where females do their own thing and can be moody. But what we've noticed the most is that any dog can be the alpha. Big or small, male or female. In our household, Audrey is the alpha, not the male (Bogart). That goes to show that dominance doesn't always come with gender. Bogart doesn't lift his leg when he pees, he squats like a girl. We also didn't neuter him until he was over a year old.
Here are some Pros vs Cons that I found online about about Males VS Females:
Males - PROS VS CONS
- PRO- Neutering is generally less expensive and less invasive then spaying
- PRO- Male dogs tend to be more focused on human beings than female dogs
- PRO OR CON- Male dogs tend to be larger in size
- CON- Male dogs have genitals that are easy to see, which makes some owners feel self-conscious
- CON- Male dogs may become aroused and/or lick their private parts
- CON- Male dogs have a tendency to remain like goofy and playful their whole lives
- CON- Male dogs may see children only as playmates and they may tend to get a little bit too frisky at times
Females -PROS VS CONS
- PRO- Some believe female dogs make a better choice for children because they may be more naturally nurturing and protective of young one
- PRO- It is believed that female dogs are easier to train because they are less easily distracted
- PRO OR CON- Female dogs are often less physical than male dogs
- CON- Female dogs are more prone to mood swings
- CON- Females are affectionate but often on their own terms
- CON- Females may prefer to go off on their own
- CON- It costs more to have a female spayed
Other points
- One thing that most dog trainers and other experienced parties agree on is that if you already have one dog, your next one should ideally be of the opposite sex, since dogs of the same sex are more likely to fight. This is especially true of females.
- A lot of behaviour comes from the specific breed and of the dogs background in hunting, showing, obedience etc
- Regardless of your dog's nature, it's your nurturing that counts!!!
Showing Your Poodle
Showing can be very expensive and time consuming. Make sure you are committed before you decide to show your dog. Here is the link to the CKC Standard Poodle Breed Standards.
If you're interested in purchasing a puppy from us for showing purposes please let us know a head of time!
If you're interested in purchasing a puppy from us for showing purposes please let us know a head of time!
Titles And What They Mean
Do you see names of dogs and not understand what all the babble of different titles and letters mean? There are plenty of different titles for a dog to earn which requires skill and time with the owner, breeder or handler. The different categories include Confirmation, Field Trial, Working, Obedience, Agility, Herding, Tracking, Earthdog, Hauling, Performance, and Miscellaneous. Here is a little break down of what may not make sense to you but is important to breeders.
CH - Champion - A dog must obtain 10 points from various judges against other dogs of its breed to obtain its Championship.
BIS - Best In Show - Awarded to the top dog judged the best at a conformation show against all dog competing.
CGN - Canine Good Neighbour - A ten-step test that assesses a dog’s behaviour in simulated everyday situations in a relaxed atmosphere.
BIS - Best In Show - Awarded to the top dog judged the best at a conformation show against all dog competing.
CGN - Canine Good Neighbour - A ten-step test that assesses a dog’s behaviour in simulated everyday situations in a relaxed atmosphere.
- See here for a full list of CKC Titles and Abbreviations.
- See here for a full list of AKC Titles and Abbreviations.
- See here to do a CKC Canine Good Neighbour Test or contact an Evaluator close to you!
Genetic & Health Testing
These are the common genetic health tests we use to determine if a Poodle is in outstanding health or not. We use these to prevent health problems in future dogs and diminish genetic disorders by not reproducing unhealthy dogs.
- Hip Dysplasia: - Xray - 2 years old +
- CE (Cardiac Evaluation): Ultrasound - 1 year old +
- Elbow Dysplasia: Xray - 2 years old +
- Eyes: (PRA) Progressive Retinal Atrophy - OFA/CERF exam - 8 weeks old +
- NE (Neonatal Encephalopathy) - DNA Test cheek swab - Any time after birth
- SA (Sebaceous Adenitis): Hereditary skin disease - Skin biopsy - 2 years old +
- Thyroid: Hypothyroidism - Blood sample - After sexual maturity and/or between heat cycles
- vWD (Von Willebrand’s Disease): Bleeding disorder - DNA Test cheek swab - Any time after birth
- Patellar Luxation - 1 year +
- Legg-Calves-Perthes - Lameness in hips and limbs - Xray - Found in early development before 7 months old
- DM (Degenerative Myelopathy): Disease of the spinal cord - DNA Test cheek swab - 3-4 weeks old +
- Addison's Disease: Autoimmune damage - Blood test if symptoms indicate it may be present - Any time after birth
- JRD (Juvenile Renal Disease): Kidney failure - Urine sample - Any time after birth
Versatility In Poodles (VIP) Inc.
OFA is the Orthopedic Foundation for Animals. The purpose of the OFA is to screen for genetic diseases in all breeds of dogs and cats. They provide breeders the resources and information to do all necessary testing.
The OFA's recommended tests for the Standard Poodle breed is Hip Dysplasyia, Eye examination, and one elective (Thyroid, SA or Cardiac evaluation). It is also recommended that if a dog presents a history of a certain disease (eg. Addisons), the dog should be tested for that as well. Test results are posted through the CHIC database.
CHIC # is the Canine Health Information Center database where you can search for a dogs health screening results. You must meet all the breed requirements in order to receive your CHIC number. It is recommended that all breeders use this method in order to have a reliable and accurate source of health information for your dog.
For example, below I have provided our dog Audrey's CHIC form. This certificate is sent once all required fields have been completed.
The OFA's recommended tests for the Standard Poodle breed is Hip Dysplasyia, Eye examination, and one elective (Thyroid, SA or Cardiac evaluation). It is also recommended that if a dog presents a history of a certain disease (eg. Addisons), the dog should be tested for that as well. Test results are posted through the CHIC database.
CHIC # is the Canine Health Information Center database where you can search for a dogs health screening results. You must meet all the breed requirements in order to receive your CHIC number. It is recommended that all breeders use this method in order to have a reliable and accurate source of health information for your dog.
For example, below I have provided our dog Audrey's CHIC form. This certificate is sent once all required fields have been completed.
Genetic Color Breakdown
If your dog is black the possible genotypes are: BBEE, BBEe, BbEE, BbEe.
If your dog is brown, the possible genotypes are: bbEE, bbEe.
If your dog is cream, white, apricot or red with a black nose, possible genotypes are: BBee, Bbee.
If your dog is cream, white, apricot or red with a brown nose, your dog's genotype is bbee.
*Note: cream represents - cream, white, apricot or red
If your dog is brown, the possible genotypes are: bbEE, bbEe.
If your dog is cream, white, apricot or red with a black nose, possible genotypes are: BBee, Bbee.
If your dog is cream, white, apricot or red with a brown nose, your dog's genotype is bbee.
*Note: cream represents - cream, white, apricot or red
Also, CLICK HERE or CLICK HERE for more information on poodle coloring.
Doodles - Our Thoughts
I'm going to try and sum this up as quickly, as easily and as less offensively as I can without opening up a can of firey angry hateful worms.
1) Yes, I am a poodle snob.
2) Yes, Doodles are cute.
3) Doodles are NOT a recognized breed.
4) Doodles are overpriced mutts. There's nothing wrong with mutts but they should not come with the price tag of a purebred.
5) Doodle breeders are lying to you. They are not hypoallergenic. It's genetically impossible to produce a litter that has 100 percent of the puppies with the coat of one parent.
6) Why ruin a good thing? Golden Retrievers are wonderful! Standard Poodles are wonderful! Why mix them and create this confused 'am I a poodle or a golden' frankeinstein mish-mash genetic disasters! You don't know what you'll get physically, mentally or genetically. Yahtzee!!
If you want a mutt/mixed breed, go to a shelter. If you want a purebred, contact a reputable breeder! Doodle's are just another way for puppy mills to make money!
Needless to say, we do not and will not breed doodles.
1) Yes, I am a poodle snob.
2) Yes, Doodles are cute.
3) Doodles are NOT a recognized breed.
4) Doodles are overpriced mutts. There's nothing wrong with mutts but they should not come with the price tag of a purebred.
5) Doodle breeders are lying to you. They are not hypoallergenic. It's genetically impossible to produce a litter that has 100 percent of the puppies with the coat of one parent.
6) Why ruin a good thing? Golden Retrievers are wonderful! Standard Poodles are wonderful! Why mix them and create this confused 'am I a poodle or a golden' frankeinstein mish-mash genetic disasters! You don't know what you'll get physically, mentally or genetically. Yahtzee!!
If you want a mutt/mixed breed, go to a shelter. If you want a purebred, contact a reputable breeder! Doodle's are just another way for puppy mills to make money!
Needless to say, we do not and will not breed doodles.
Why Is My Puppy So Expensive?
Okay, so here's the BIG questions that EVERYBODY asks. Why are puppies so expensive? More specifically, why are PUREBRED puppies so expensive?
I know you're all curious. And that's why I'm so open about it. I tell everyone why. Because YOU deserve to know where YOUR money is going. Am I right??
First off, I want everyone to know that breeding dogs is NOT a very profitable business. You basically break even in the end. (I will break it down to you later on in this). The money you get back goes right back into the dogs. Breeding dogs should be a hobby and only that (with some exceptions of course). If someone makes ALL their income from breeding puppies then chances are you should stay away because they're most likely a puppy mill of some sort.
I'm not even really sure where to start. The money we have personally poured, or should I say dumped into our doggies is sort of disgusting. I won't get into that part. I'll just give you some estimates so you can get the jist of things. Now let me make myself clear, I am by no means complaining here, just simply explaining!!
Okay, so the first part of the cost of breeding is your business costs.
CKC yearly membership fee ($55 yearly), Registration of kennel name ($180), Website URL & email ($50+ a year) etc.
PLUS The initial cost of buying your dogs.
We paid $1500 for Audrey. Bogart we paid $2000+tax +crate ($50) +flight to NS ($200+ appx).
PLUS the cost of vet bills (Vaccinations etc- I won't get into that you know all that cost already).
Bogart specifically required eye surgery (which is why we're not breeding him) and we spent roughly $2000 on vet bills + an extra $4000 on failed attempts to show him. (Wahh)
Genetic testing. Which we do for all our dogs prior to breeding after age 2 which is VERY important. This is something that an unregistered dog/'mutt'/'oopsie litter' would not have done. We test eyes, thyroid, heart, hips and elbows which with vet fees and OFA fees works out to be roughly $600 per dog.
As far as the actual breeding goes here's a list of what we spent. These costs were actually double since our first breeding in March 2016 didn't take, but this is what it costs for each round.
-Progesterone tests x3 ($100 each)
-Stud fee $1200 -$2500
-Semen collection $400
- Semen flight via Air Canada ($80)
-Audrey's surgery $350
- 2 Xrays and 1 ultrasound $250
There are also other costs included which are confidential and between myself and the other breeders that don't need to be disclosed publically.
AND don't forget the cost of puppy food, supplies for whelping, whelping pen, and the puppies 8 week vet check, vaccination, deworming, microchip, CKC registering. AND in my case - taking time off work for the whelping!
Also, let’s not forget another important part. TIME. Time is huge. The amount of dedication, love and effort it takes to properly care for a puppy until 8 weeks of age is HUGE and can have a large impact on the demeanor of your dog. If the puppies are neglected, dirty, unhealthy and not socialized they will be weirdos.
Now mind you, yes we spent extra on our procedure. Like, why not use a dog that's close by? Big, bang, boom, skip the ugly stuff. The reason is because the dogs in Nova Scotia are either related to our dogs (which means inbreeding- no thanks), the 'breeder' breeds mixed breeds (which is a no no), OR they have a specific color (i.e. apricot) that isn't greatly compatible with our dogs. AND the best part about doing it surgically is that there's so many more possibilities our there for fantastic poodles and genetic diversity (which means healthier dogs).
My head is spinning just trying to explain all this 'stuff'. But maybe this will help you understand a little more about the prices. We don't just call up the neighbour and say "hey let's breed our dogs". We dedicate time to make sure you have the perfect dog that you know the health history and you know it is coming from someone responsible. And in all honesty a lot of people say "well hey I don't really care about any of that stuff".. Which is also perfectly fine! In that case perhaps adopting a puppy from a shelter would be a better choice for your family. But for many families like mine, we need reassurance that we'll be getting a healthy, well rounded, hypoallergenic puppy!
Despite all of my blah, blah, blah.... if you want to skip all that non sense and your head is spinning (like mine)... I came across this comparison on the internet and I think it puts things in perspective.
Please read and enjoy!!
I know you're all curious. And that's why I'm so open about it. I tell everyone why. Because YOU deserve to know where YOUR money is going. Am I right??
First off, I want everyone to know that breeding dogs is NOT a very profitable business. You basically break even in the end. (I will break it down to you later on in this). The money you get back goes right back into the dogs. Breeding dogs should be a hobby and only that (with some exceptions of course). If someone makes ALL their income from breeding puppies then chances are you should stay away because they're most likely a puppy mill of some sort.
I'm not even really sure where to start. The money we have personally poured, or should I say dumped into our doggies is sort of disgusting. I won't get into that part. I'll just give you some estimates so you can get the jist of things. Now let me make myself clear, I am by no means complaining here, just simply explaining!!
Okay, so the first part of the cost of breeding is your business costs.
CKC yearly membership fee ($55 yearly), Registration of kennel name ($180), Website URL & email ($50+ a year) etc.
PLUS The initial cost of buying your dogs.
We paid $1500 for Audrey. Bogart we paid $2000+tax +crate ($50) +flight to NS ($200+ appx).
PLUS the cost of vet bills (Vaccinations etc- I won't get into that you know all that cost already).
Bogart specifically required eye surgery (which is why we're not breeding him) and we spent roughly $2000 on vet bills + an extra $4000 on failed attempts to show him. (Wahh)
Genetic testing. Which we do for all our dogs prior to breeding after age 2 which is VERY important. This is something that an unregistered dog/'mutt'/'oopsie litter' would not have done. We test eyes, thyroid, heart, hips and elbows which with vet fees and OFA fees works out to be roughly $600 per dog.
As far as the actual breeding goes here's a list of what we spent. These costs were actually double since our first breeding in March 2016 didn't take, but this is what it costs for each round.
-Progesterone tests x3 ($100 each)
-Stud fee $1200 -$2500
-Semen collection $400
- Semen flight via Air Canada ($80)
-Audrey's surgery $350
- 2 Xrays and 1 ultrasound $250
There are also other costs included which are confidential and between myself and the other breeders that don't need to be disclosed publically.
AND don't forget the cost of puppy food, supplies for whelping, whelping pen, and the puppies 8 week vet check, vaccination, deworming, microchip, CKC registering. AND in my case - taking time off work for the whelping!
Also, let’s not forget another important part. TIME. Time is huge. The amount of dedication, love and effort it takes to properly care for a puppy until 8 weeks of age is HUGE and can have a large impact on the demeanor of your dog. If the puppies are neglected, dirty, unhealthy and not socialized they will be weirdos.
Now mind you, yes we spent extra on our procedure. Like, why not use a dog that's close by? Big, bang, boom, skip the ugly stuff. The reason is because the dogs in Nova Scotia are either related to our dogs (which means inbreeding- no thanks), the 'breeder' breeds mixed breeds (which is a no no), OR they have a specific color (i.e. apricot) that isn't greatly compatible with our dogs. AND the best part about doing it surgically is that there's so many more possibilities our there for fantastic poodles and genetic diversity (which means healthier dogs).
My head is spinning just trying to explain all this 'stuff'. But maybe this will help you understand a little more about the prices. We don't just call up the neighbour and say "hey let's breed our dogs". We dedicate time to make sure you have the perfect dog that you know the health history and you know it is coming from someone responsible. And in all honesty a lot of people say "well hey I don't really care about any of that stuff".. Which is also perfectly fine! In that case perhaps adopting a puppy from a shelter would be a better choice for your family. But for many families like mine, we need reassurance that we'll be getting a healthy, well rounded, hypoallergenic puppy!
Despite all of my blah, blah, blah.... if you want to skip all that non sense and your head is spinning (like mine)... I came across this comparison on the internet and I think it puts things in perspective.
Please read and enjoy!!
"Pretend you’re buying a phone
When you go in to a wireless store and sign up for the first of what will likely be an endless series of two-year contracts, you are given a choice of six phones.
Two of them are free with your plan, two are $99, and two are $199.
I would predict, and I think I’d be close to correct, that almost NOBODY is going to walk out with the free phone. If you can possibly, possibly make it work, even if it hurts, you’re going to leave with the $199 phone. If you can’t, you’ll walk out with the $99 phone – but you’ll gaze wistfully at the $199 one you’re leaving behind, and every time your phone frustrates you over the next two years you’ll say “If only I had stretched and gotten the more expensive one.”"
Well-bred puppies are not “expensive.” They simply are what they are.
Generally the cost of a well-bred puppy is between one and three thousand dollars, which is what you should expect to pay. For that, you should expect to receive a well-bred, well-raised, well-socialized puppy, and you should (I’m going to go ahead and say MUST) get the equivalent of the 12 years/12,000 miles warranty. You should expect that if this “phone” catches on fire – if the puppy ends up with a major, unforeseen problem – you are going to be taken care of. You should also expect a lifetime of support and help for all the things that come up in the normal daily life of the dog. Think of it as lifetime technical support. If you’ve got a limp or a training problem or something is worrying you, you should have a breeder helping you figure it out. If your potential breeder isn’t obvious about what support comes with the dog, ASK HER. The answer should be quick and complete."
http://rufflyspeaking.net/2015/05/11/why-do-puppies-cost-so-much/
When you go in to a wireless store and sign up for the first of what will likely be an endless series of two-year contracts, you are given a choice of six phones.
Two of them are free with your plan, two are $99, and two are $199.
I would predict, and I think I’d be close to correct, that almost NOBODY is going to walk out with the free phone. If you can possibly, possibly make it work, even if it hurts, you’re going to leave with the $199 phone. If you can’t, you’ll walk out with the $99 phone – but you’ll gaze wistfully at the $199 one you’re leaving behind, and every time your phone frustrates you over the next two years you’ll say “If only I had stretched and gotten the more expensive one.”"
Well-bred puppies are not “expensive.” They simply are what they are.
Generally the cost of a well-bred puppy is between one and three thousand dollars, which is what you should expect to pay. For that, you should expect to receive a well-bred, well-raised, well-socialized puppy, and you should (I’m going to go ahead and say MUST) get the equivalent of the 12 years/12,000 miles warranty. You should expect that if this “phone” catches on fire – if the puppy ends up with a major, unforeseen problem – you are going to be taken care of. You should also expect a lifetime of support and help for all the things that come up in the normal daily life of the dog. Think of it as lifetime technical support. If you’ve got a limp or a training problem or something is worrying you, you should have a breeder helping you figure it out. If your potential breeder isn’t obvious about what support comes with the dog, ASK HER. The answer should be quick and complete."
http://rufflyspeaking.net/2015/05/11/why-do-puppies-cost-so-much/
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Poodle , http://www.dogbreedinfo.com/standardpoodle.htm , http://www.yourpurebredpuppy.com/buying/articles/male-female-dogs.html
http://www.vipoodle.org/PDF_Files/TestsforStandardPoodles.pdf , http://www.poodleclubofamerica.org/all-about-poodles/health-concerns , http://www.pedigreedatabase.com/articles.html?s=choosing-a-male-or-a-female-dog-what-is-the-difference , http://www.yourpurebredpuppy.com/health/articles/spaying-female-dog.html
http://www.vipoodle.org/PDF_Files/TestsforStandardPoodles.pdf , http://www.poodleclubofamerica.org/all-about-poodles/health-concerns , http://www.pedigreedatabase.com/articles.html?s=choosing-a-male-or-a-female-dog-what-is-the-difference , http://www.yourpurebredpuppy.com/health/articles/spaying-female-dog.html
